In what was Paris Fashion Week’s most anticipated runway of the season, Raf Simons made his creative direction debut at Christian Dior today, premiering his “New Look” ready-to-wear vision for the heritage house.
Coming off of smaller fashion label Jil Sander, we’ve already seen Raf in action last July for Dior’s first couture collection and the overwhelming verdict was it was a satisfying knockout.
While appearing confident in its minimalist attitude, the collection did feel less fulfilling, ultimately. There was nothing truly offensive about the collection. It featured beautifully technical ball gowns, peplum jacket dresses, and ‘50s-inspired mini skirts that hinted much promise for the brand without really articulating anything. Anything besides that Raf’s mood and past sensibilities was the right choice.
The element that was missing from the collection, however, was “The Dream,” quietly capitalized.
At the end of the runway, Dior should exude a feeling of desire, which Raf may still be trying to reconcile with his self-proclaimed “anti-sex” creative formula.
He definitely has a romantic, if reserved, side, and you want to see him open it up a little at the brand. Dior gave him the key, now he just has to find its heart.
And you trust that he will with the label, no question. Understandably after Galliano-gate a year and a half ago, Raf probably felt the brand had to be cleansed first. That’s what Dior channeled this year on the runway: a clean, blank slate in its clothing.