Following John Galliano's anti-Semitic faux pas resulting fall from fashion grace last year, designer Bill Gaytten (formerly of Dior) replaced him as creative director at John Galliano.
It’s also Gaytten’s first collection for Galliano without juggling designs for Dior simultaneously, a task Raf Simons has since taken over at the heritage house.
These are important little back stories to keep in mind when considering the John Galliano spring/summer 2013 collection, which is essentially like a deconstructed version of Galliano.
Gaytten has taken the label’s love for the extravagant and exploration of high voluminous silhouettes while also paring it down with a more architectural focus.
The origami folds and cocoon-sculpted shapes took full shape in wrap dresses, jacket dress skirts, bandeau tops, pointy shorts, wide-legged trousers, and gigantic collars that billowed in invisible breezes on the runway.
They were subtle swells that made for a visible shift in the direction Gaytten is taking the Galliano label—the only reference that felt like some comforting common ground between the two were those oversized hats.
The current aesthetic and sensibilities could read as a disconnect for its fanbase: If the Galliano woman wore his former collections in the day, this collection is more along the lines of what that same Galliano woman might wear to bed.
Paris Fashion Week has been a showcase of new designers eclipsing legacy houses. No comment from Galliano himself, but you’re left wondering if he feels his ego’s at all bruised by this new flight of fancy aesthetic at his namesake label. Discuss.